Do omnivores perform class distinction? a qualitative inspection of culinary tastes, boundaries and cultural tolerance

Abstract

This article explores the culinary taste repertoires of middle-class people in Turkey who can be defined as omnivores due to their routine engagement with 'lowbrow' food spaces. We aim to understand how they make sense of their boundary crossing and the extent to which this indicates tolerance. We find that our culinary omnivores develop interest in traditional food and tend to cross established boundaries between the traditional and modern to maintain a cosmopolitan palette. However, our analysis identifies certain conditions that foster and limit omnivorous practices, such as mealtime, type of occasion and with whom the food is shared, as well as one's class trajectory, demonstrating how selective people are when they step outside of their original taste profiles. Derogatory comments about the manners of these settings' original clientele suggest that omnivores continue to perform distinction regardless of their openness to 'lowbrow' cultural forms.